The Official 2AZFE Engine Management Write-Up. Brought
to you by Dezod Motorsports…We ARE performance.
As a source of continuing support & knowledge
for the Toyota High Performance Aftermarket, we here at Dezod Motorsports felt
that there was a void of knowledge in engine management systems and tuning the
2AZFE engines. This article is here to set the record straight, and lay all of
the facts on the table from the get go!
Before we
dive heard first into the topics at hand, I feel some background information is
necessary to define and classify each of the engine management systems and
their inherent properties. This article will not only define the properties of
each of the engine management systems, but also with their pros and cons, their
cost, their features and some inside information about each.
Let’s get
started shall we? I will start first with the most popular of the engine
management systems due to cost and availability: Piggybacks.
Piggyback Engine Management
A piggyback
engine management system is the most popular form of engine management used in
the high performance aftermarket tuning of Toyota
engines. This is largely due to the fact that piggybacks are cheap, readily
available and typically do not require a lot of work to get running. These
attributes make signal modifiers like this a popular choice.
The
piggyback simply takes and alters a signal or channel on the stock engine
management to get what you need out of it with some minor laptop plugging. This
is why we call it a signal modifier. It modifies the MAP or MAF, maybe injector
pulse width or ignition timing. The bottom line is that it fools with the
signals that the stock engine management system outputs. Some units are more
sophisticated than others, and not all piggybacks are created equal, and I will
delve into that a bit later in the article.
These piggyback units use a large
amount of the stock engine managements’ programming untouched to allow for ease
of setup and tuning. Cold starts, air conditioning, throttle enrichment, decal
fuel cut, variable valve timing and several others are typically not touched by
most piggybacks. The units do however, typically modify or read: throttle
position, cam signal, crank signal, coil packs, injector output etc. Again, not
all are created equal.
Often piggybacks fall prey to not
having the control or necessary channels of getting you the results you need.
This is very common on the 2AZFE engine, where the current based primary O2
sensor is stunningly accurate and the factory engine management is VERY good at
getting what it needs regardless of what you have entered into your piggyback
and such. The classic case on this engine is when the vehicle is in closed loop
operation, which is typically below 70kpa and below 4000 RPMs. This means that
the factory engine management system is using a severe amount of feedback from
various sensors to get the most accurate combustion for emissions, torque and
fuel economy. This agenda as a whole usually is the polar opposite of what you
need with the exception of maximum torque. J
The average street cost of a
piggyback from one of the major players in the the game will set you back about
$400-650 before you have to add on any accessories like additional sensors,
wiring etc. The cost point, readily available, ease of setup and the lack of
extensive programming make these units the most popular. The units I will break
down are the AEM FIC and the GReddy E-Manage Ultimate. Starting with the top of
this order, let’s roll with the AEM FIC first.
AEM FIC Piggyback
I did write
a previous review on this engine management when it first arrived to the
market; back a few years ago. The unit is fairly sophisticated and allows for
some very good control in all facets of the combustion cycle, but still is limited
as a whole. This is a universal item that is not designed to work on one
vehicle, but many. With this being said, it makes for more work or programming
to get some things to work properly.
In a nut
shell, this signal modifier can control fuel, MAF sensor manipulation, O2
sensor feedback and ignition control (retard only) and converts to speed
density (MAP sensor based tuning). Let’s see that in chart format shall we?
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Engine Management
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Speed Density
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Fuel Control
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Ignition Control
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O2 Sensor Skewing
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Cost
|
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AEM FIC
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♦
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♦
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♦
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♦
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$400
|
The AEM FIC
offers an on-board MAP sensor to tune off of, which converts the tuning to
speed density (reading off of a MAP than a MAF). This does have its’ inherent
drawbacks such as lack of accuracy, no small VE adjustments being made on it’s
own (responsiveness to mild bolt-on changes), temperature changes and a few
other things are not able to be done with the use of other tables and such
under speed density.
The FIC has
the ability to add or remove fuel from the setup. Other units do not offer full
subtraction, but just addition of fuel. This exact scenario was popular with
the GReddy E-manage Blue.
The FIC
also offers ignition control, but only in the form of retard and not advance.
So if you are looking for an engine management to control cams with, keep
looking. Those Brian crower Stage 2 cams that love some good ignition advance
up top won’t be getting it from this engine management. The FIC can only retard
timing. That’s all!
The FIC has
a primary O2 skewing function to help in partial throttle control on those
boosted apps where you may tip into boost in running through the gears. This O2
sensor skewing allows for a limited amount of correction in the right direction
on a boosted app. Tip into one and two pounds of boost in a gear and 14.7:1
air/fuel ratio is not a good thing. The O2 skewing helps in this scenario when
in closed loop, and can help achieve much lower air/fuel ratios of, for
example, 12.5 to 1 or lower. This is achieved on the 2AZFE by using several
functions of the AEM FIC together to work harmoniously.
The MAF
sensor can also be clipped with the AEM FIC as well. This permits the MAF from
seeing too much boost and making corrections against partial throttle desired
AFRs. A properly clamped MAF map, a properly established O2 map and your main
fuel map coinciding will allow for partial throttle air/fuel ratio control.
With the
average street price of $400 and all of the wiring & software included, an
on-board pressure sensor and the options it offers, makes the AEM FIC an
excellent choice on the budget.
GReddy E-manage Ultimate Piggyback
A lot of
users think this is the end all of piggybacks, but I think it lacks in a few
areas and how it operates to really make that statement. It does offer some
nice bells and whistles, but most of these do not help tune the car. They are extra
luxuries and nothing more.
Again, we
are faced with a universal item that was made to work on the 2AZFE. This is a
universal item that is not designed to work on one vehicle, but many. With this
being said, it makes for more work or programming to get some things to work
properly.
The EMU
(E-Manage Ultimate) does offer a LOT more control (in some areas) than the FIC,
but again lacks in others. The unit offers the option of MAF removal (the FIC
does too), multiple map support through use of a dip switchs, factory speed
limiter cutting, auto trans shift manipulation, coolant temp correction, air
inlet temp correction, acceleration correction, individual cylinder adjustment
for fuel & ignition and a few others. These are all great, but it lacks a
few crucial areas, which involve the O2 sensor.
|
Engine Management
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Speed Density
|
Fuel Control
|
Ignition Control
|
O2 Sensor Skewing
|
Cost
|
|
AEM FIC
|
♦
|
♦
|
♦
|
♦
|
$400
|
|
E-manage Ultimate
|
♦
|
♦
|
♦
|
|
$650
|
The EMU
offers fuel trimming and addition like the FIC. This unit can tuned on a throttle position based map or MAP sensor
based (speed density-with the purchase of the GR pressure sensor & harness).
On the boosted apps with a decent sized turbo, I’d recommend doing the tune MAP
sensor based, while TPS based on a small turbo that spools nearly instantly.
The
ignition control of the EMU is rather fuzzy and does not really work too well
on the 2AZFE platform. I have played with it on numerous cars, but have yet to
see it really work as well as the AEM FIC in that category.
The
individual trim of cylinders is really cool and kudos to GReddy for offering
that on a cost effective unit. That is so nice especially if you have a poor
intake manifold design that may cheat 1-2 cylinders of air flow, in this case,
you can compensate accordingly.
The EMU
also offers aux table inputs to help for temp correction and coolant temp
correction, but again this would not be needed if it worked with the stock MAF,
which is far more accurate than any MAP sensor will ever be.
Being able
to modify the stock “pump shot” during acceleration is a nice feature
especially if you have a high volume fuel pump and some large injectors. The
factory ECU pump shot may bring your acceleration enrichment to a 10.0:1 or
lower, which may not be necessary or more in line with your AFR trajectory once
peak boost is achieved. Another leg up for GReddy!
The major
downfalls in my eyes the EMU lacks is O2 sensor manipulation on this app, which
is damn near essential on this application along with better ignition control.
With a car remaining in closed loop for a lot of normal driving (sub 70kpa and
sub 4000 rpms) that means it does not have control over partial throttle to
provide accurate air/fuel ratio control when tipping in to boost between gears.
This ultimately leads to issues of lean scenarios, which lead to your block
with holes in it.
The
Ultimate has even more features than I mentioned, but by the time you buy the
unit at $650, the wiring for another $120 (because it’s not included), the MAP
sensor (another $150), then you are into GReddy for $900+. That’s half the
price (if not more) of a standalone ECU with a lot less control.
Overall for
the money, the FIC wins hands down for control on this application, but GReddy
offers a lot of control in other areas, but you must pay for it all. $400 AEM
FIC vs a $900 GReddy EMU. The choice is yours. On/off cars are not fun and not
practical especially for a daily driver. This does not make for a fun car to
drive. So pick your poison accordingly.
In-Line Engine Management
The in-line
ECU option is a new phenomenon to even us here at Dezod Motorsports. We have
seen and done quite a bit, but this version of ECU has truly captured our love
and excitement for engine management again. The reason why we have this newly
found adoration is due to the flexibility, control and simplicity of it as a
whole.
The in-line ECU allows for full
control of closed loop and open loop fuel control. This is a MUCH more
elaborate form of engine management and is sort-of still a signal modifier, but
is not at the same time. The intricacies are a bit cumbersome, but I will try
to simplify it as much as possible.
This style
unit uses the stock ECU to your advantage. It allows for one to use Toyota’s
millions of dollars invested into fuel and ignition delivery to your advantage.
Quite simply, it’s almost like reprogramming the stock ECU to get what you want
out of it. I can’t think of any other way to explain it, but it’s merely that
simple.
So
drive-ability is very important to most people, and other than the cumbersome
stand-alone tuning, this is probably the next best way of getting reliability
and drive-ability all in one ball of wax.
Much like a
piggyback, this unit leaves cold starts, variable valve, air conditioning and a
few other odd-ball things to the stock ECU, but makes the combustion cycle
completely controllable otherwise.
Allan Phillips Racing In-Line Engine Management
The APR X1 ECU is a wonderful unit
and allows for full control over fuel and ignition control. We, here at Dezod,
feel that this is the best option for those looking to build a radical street
machine that will also do well at the track. This unit could also be used on a
full blown race application as well as it supports a lot of additional sensors
and such as thermocouples, boost inputs, widebands etc.
This unit, which is the opposite of
all of the units mentioned, was designed and built to perform on this
application ONLY. We here at Dezod Motorsports spent nearly one year working on
this unit to be specifically for this platform and to provide damn near OEM
quality to your tuning.
The unit uses the stock MAF for
tuning and reads in absolute pressure (Vaccuum & Boost) in kilopascals
(kPA). It has high resolution tables for fuel and load along with spark and
load to read off of and makes for VERY easy control.
The stock MAF sensor offers far
superior advantages to any and all speed density tuning. Not only is the MAF
more accurate, it’s like 3D or 4D modeling of your air flow into the engine.
Quite simply, the MAF takes into account ambient temperature, barometric
pressure & air flow all in one swoop. MAP sensor based apps, only read air pressure.
You then must use a supplemental intake air temperature sensor and barometric
pressure sensor to get all of the data you get from your one lonely MAF sensor.
Not to mention, if you had all three of the sensors in the MAP based system,
you’d also have to program individual trims for each of the conditions. For
example, in Denver, Colorado
at 90 degrees would be a different trim than Miami,
Florida at 90 degrees. Why? The answer is
barometric base pressure due to altitude. This is the foundational pressure in
which all pressure is measured. If that base pressure is lower due to altitude,
then your overall output of relative boost pressure will be down as well.
With all of this being said, why would you not
want to use that MAF? If you answered something funny there, and still have
your heart set on using a MAP sensor, the APR X1 can use a MAP sensor as well
for up to 5 BAR of pressure.
Since the X1 uses the stock MAF, I
am sure a few people are talking about maxing it out or thing something along
those lines. In a nut shell, no worries should be had there as well. With the
X1 there are two MUCH higher flowing MAFs that can be dropped right onto this
system and used like a stock MAF. The MAFs can be run to total up to 900 g/s^2
of air flow! THAT is a lot of boost! Just a couple of key strokes and you are
done. Now let’s talk spark!
The APR X1 let’s the stock ECU
select the final timing value before you modify it. So for example, it may
determine that at wide open throttle it needs 22 degrees of advance. With the
X1, you can advance or retard from that value to get what you need as far as
spark is concerned. This is truly different and offers more standalone control
in comparison to the piggyback ECUs, which is exactly why I said it’s more of a
hybrid unit.
With the X1, there is no need to
worry about O2 maps at all. Because this system uses the stock ECU to your
advantage, all you need to do is program the main fuel map and make sure your
injector transfer function is mint, and you are golden. The stock ECU does the
rest to ensure your new fuel base calibration is ascertained in part throttle
closed loop and/or open loop wide-open throttle.
In all, I feel with still having
the all of the ODB2 readings in tact like the piggybacks, but offering more
standalone control, the X1 is an excellent alternative. Not to mention, I am
not going to get into the drivability of the damn thing, but it’s about as
parallel as a well tuned stand-alone engine management or an OEM turbocharged
vehicle as it gets. With a price tag of $1850, I feel it’s a good value and
available exclusively through Dezod Motorsports.
Stand-Alone Engine Management
A stand-alone engine management
system is the most controllable form of engine management used in the high
performance aftermarket tuning of Toyota
engines. This is largely due to the fact that it stands alone without the stock
engine management’s assistance.. One does not need the stock ECU at all (with
the exception of powering the drive-by-wire), and the chosen unit controls all of
the combustion cycle, cold starts etc. There are different degrees of
standalones in the 2AZ market, but all share similar price tags and have
different amounts of control. One common thread is the fact of no OBD2 plug-in
emissions tests will allow any of these units to pass inspection because
several signals are stripped from the factory engine management, which makes
for lots of angry codes to be output into the OBD2 port.
Stand-alone engine management is
truly a blank slate. All of the programming from firing order, injector
phasing, ignition phasing, crank patterns, cold starts, accel enrichment etc
all need to be programmed from scratch as well.. These units are not for the
faint at heart and definitely for the advanced tuner whom needs maximum control.
Anyway, if control and a track
based car is your game, this is your engine management. I will briefly touch
upon AEM and Hydra.
AEM Stand-Alone Engine Management
The AEM EMS
offers a wide variety of adjustment including, but not limited to: cold starts,
full fuel control, full ignition control, variable valve timing, rev limiters,
warm starts, throttle enrichment and just about everything under the sun. It’s
nearly 100% programmable in that aspect. It allows for the end user to dictate
exactly how you want the car to run in all facets. If you want to idle at
10.0:1 air/fuel ratio and 22 degrees of advance, you can do it! Your engine, on
the other hand, may not…..
The AEM EMS
comes as just a unit and all of the sensors are sold ala-carte. So you will
have to buy whatever sensors you need if you do not want to use the stock ones.
Most people, with that being said, opt for the AEM sensors for ease.
The oxygen sensor of choice for the
stand-alone units typically are a wideband, which can be implemented into the
system for closed loop operation. Again, that wideband is sold ala-carte. The
AEM can use PLX, AEM, Innovate, FJO, Motec and a few other widebands through
the wizards. But, like any other sensor, if you have a schematic of voltage
versus the ouput you can make a custom calibration for your sensor in the AEM
software.
The V2 AEM
EMS is being worked on here at Dezod Motorsports, and we expect to be bigger
and better than the V1 stuff. Stay tuned as we finish up the R&D again, and
release more data soon!
Hydra Stand-Alone Engine Management
The Hydra
Nemesis offers a lot of control just like the AEM, but on a much more cryptic
software that seems very dated. The software has lots of PF fey entry points,
which makes it very difficult to take on if you are not familiar with the
system.
The Hydra
does come a touch more complete than the AEM with a built in MAP sensor and a
built in wideband oxygen sensor. This makes it easier for a novice to get it
rolling in one swoop rather than playing around with additional sensors or
trying to make stock sensors work with the engine management, which can always
be a treat.
Again,
Hydra controls full fuel, ignition, variable valve and such just like the AEM,
but offers a quite limited tuner base in comparison to the AEM stuff. The
choice is yours, and be aware of what tuner base is in your area. Remember,
with a standalone it’s garbage in = garbage out. I’d recommend doing some
research first and finding what reputable tuners in your area specialize in the
chosen engine management. Some prefer Hydra, while some prefer AEM and yet
others prefer Motec…..
Conclusions
There are
plenty of ways to spend your hard earned dollars and even more ways to get the
job done, but very few ways to get the job done right. I’d suggest you do your
homework and really analyze your budget if you are concerned with making good
power and making it reliable. One should look at their setup and seriously ask
themselves, am I ever going to make it a true dedicated track car? Am I looking
for the most reliability? Is this something I can tinker with on my own? Is
this something I can afford? This is my daily driver and I can’t afford to blow
it up….Which is the single most thing heard every day here at Dezod, and the
funning thing about it is that in my opinion, these guys need a ton of control.
You are hitting tons of different types of areas in your maps everyday. It
doesn’t matter if it’s creeping in 2nd or 1st in a parking lot, hammering
it to make a quick pass in 3rd or screaming up an on-ramp in 4th….Cruising
at 50mph….There is a lot of control that is needed there and the proper engine
management should be selected for your budget and needs.
The engine
management price tags are reflecting how much control you need and or want. The
more expensive the unit, the more control it has. There is typically more
reliability (assuming a good tune) and the more seamless it will feel when
running through the gears. You do get what you pay for, and I see and hear it
time and time again. The guys that want to make 400+whp, and want to run a
$400-600 piggyback to do it are just plain out of their minds. They want to
trust their $10,000 investment (between turbo kit and engine build) with a $400
piggyback. That’s the equivalent of having the janitor running your Fortune 500
Company. It makes no sense! Big builds require big budgets, which require more
control to do the job right. There is no room for error at those power levels
and I am sure you do not want to do a build like that 2 or 3 times to figure
that out. So, with that being said, pick your poison wisely.
